I'm standing here with the sand between my toes, my board in one hand, leash around one of my ankles. I watch the waves crash at the shoreline, as I walk towards the ocean. I can see the waves crashing dangerously on the outside. As I put my board in the water, I started to paddle as the water hits my body and I dive under the waves. As I get closer to the outside surf, dolphins seem to join in on the fun. I head over to the line up, as I wait there the adrenaline runs straight through my veins. Now it's my turn to surf. Then when I see a good wave, I start to paddle hard and try to catch the dangerous wave, I try to wipe out the thought of the sharp rocks at the bottom. I seem to catch the wave, as I stand on the board. A tunnel of water has formed around me, the ride is smooth and beautiful. As I'm leaving the tunnel I touch the water around me. When I get back to the line up everyone cheers, that was the best wave of the day.I paddle back to the beach, sit on my towel and watch the sunset. As the sunsets the party begins, everyone shows up with a smile on their face. Thinking about how the days are going so fast, also how life is just drifting away. Wish this day would never end and the sun would never rise, again.
