Laying on my board,
Paddling hard,
Out to the reef break,
Pounding back set.
Excitement mounting,
I surged strongly forward,
For I could see,
An enormous wave rolling in.
Swiftly I spun my board around,
Readying myself,
To catch the rising and falling,
Hammering, thundering, relentless force.
Adrenalin growing, energy in tensing,
Now or never, I take the leap,
Throw myself off the peak,
Gliding down its sheer, steep, face.
Sky above me became so blue,
All I could see was the roof of the wave,
Closing in on me, trapped.
I felt myself gradually falling,
Spinning, out of my control, pummeled.
The wave sucked the water up,
Becoming shallow,
My face scrapped the sharp, jagged reef.
Blood blinding me, disorientated,
Tried to swim to the surface.
I thought all was lost, my life at its end,
Started praying for god.
Strong arms lifted me out of the water,
Wrapped me around a board,
Carried me safely to the shore.
Laid me on the beach,
His eyes looking me up and down,
gashes of flesh, been torn away.
Put in an ambulance, I was rushed away.
That stranger saved my life,
So I could live another day,
Surf another wave.
