The next kick

The sweet smell
the feeling in between my toes
my board and me, one unity
fresh air and salt in the eyes
not an unfamiliar sensation

the crisp wave
and the crashing sound
pulsing through the water
hoping for a kick

heat of the water splashing up in my face
i feel free, happy and wild
my heart is pounding
and blood pumping

at one with a wave
peaceful with the water
calm and steady like the board
just waiting for the next kick